How to Clean Patio, Pavers, and Outdoor Furniture with a Pressure Washer

I bought my first pressure washer thinking it would be magic. Just point and spray, right? Two hours later I had carved a trench through my patio, stripped paint off my neighbor's fence (long story), and turned my nice concrete into something that looked like a moonscape. I learned the hard way so you don't have to. Let's get your patio, pavers, and furniture clean without the disasters.

Patio furniture takes a beating from weather and birds all year long. Pressure washing is the fastest way to clean it, but different materials need different approaches — here's how to safely clean plastic, metal, wicker, and cushion furniture without causing damage.

Patio furniture takes a beating from weather and birds all year long. Pressure washing is the fastest way to clean it, but different materials need different approaches — here's how to safely clean plastic, metal, wicker, and cushion furniture without causing damage.

Patio furniture takes a beating from weather and birds all year long. Pressure washing is the fastest way to clean it, but different materials need different approaches — here's how to safely clean plastic, metal, wicker, and cushion furniture without causing damage.

Patio furniture takes a beating from weather and birds all year long. Pressure washing is the fastest way to clean it, but different materials need different approaches — here's how to safely clean plastic, metal, wicker, and cushion furniture without causing damage.

What You'll Actually Need

Don't go buy a $1000 machine. For patios and furniture, a 2000-2800 PSI electric washer is perfect. Gas washers over 3000 PSI are overkill and will destroy stuff. I use a 2300 PSI / 1.2 GPM electric unit. Paid $180 for it five years ago. Still works.

Tools list:

• Pressure washer (electric, 2000-2800 PSI, 1.1-1.4 GPM)
• Surface cleaner attachment (buy one. Trust me. I'll explain.)
• Turbo nozzle (good for furniture but risky on pavers)
• 40-degree nozzle (safest for general work)
• 15-degree nozzle (for tough stains only)
• Bleach or sodium hypochlorite (household bleach is fine)
• Simple Green or Krud Kutter (for furniture)
• Soft brush (nylon bristles, not wire)
• Drop cloths or tarps
• Safety glasses and closed-toe shoes

Don't buy: Those "patio cleaner" bottles that cost $20. They're just watered-down bleach. Buy a gallon of generic pool shock ($5) and dilute it yourself.

Prep Work: The Step I Skipped

First time I pressure washed, I just dragged the machine out and went to town. Mud flew everywhere. Windows got dirty. Plants died. Here's what I do now:

1. Move everything off the patio. Chairs, tables, planters, grills. All of it.
2. Wet down nearby plants. Spray them with a hose. Then cover with a tarp or drop cloth. Bleach kills foliage. I killed a $80 hydrangea once. Never again.
3. Sweep the area. Get all loose dirt, leaves, spider webs. You're just wasting water otherwise.
4. Pre-treat stains with a bleach mix. For organic stains (mold, algae, mildew), mix 1 part bleach with 4 parts water in a garden sprayer. Spray it on. Let it sit 10-15 minutes. Don't let it dry out.

Cleaning the Patio and Pavers

Here's the biggest mistake I see: using the wand directly on concrete. That's how you get those ugly lines and divots. Buy a surface cleaner attachment. It's a spinning disc that blasts water downward. It costs about $40-60 and saves you hours of work.

My method:

• Attach the surface cleaner. Works best with the machine at full throttle.
• Start at one corner of the patio. Work in slow, overlapping passes. Think mowing the lawn, not scrubbing a pot.
• Keep the disc flat on the surface. If you tilt it, it'll dig into the concrete.
• For edges and corners the surface cleaner misses, switch to the 40-degree nozzle. Hold the wand at a 45-degree angle and keep the tip 6-8 inches from the surface.
• Don't stop in one spot. Keep moving. Even two seconds on a spot can etch the surface.

For pavers: Same technique but be careful around the sand joints. High pressure will blow the polymeric sand right out. I found that out after re-sanding my entire 300 sq ft patio. Use the surface cleaner on pavers too. It spreads the pressure evenly. Stay 12 inches away from any joint lines with the wand.

Cleaning Outdoor Furniture

Pressure washing furniture is delicate. You're not trying to strip paint. You're trying to remove grime, bird droppings, pollen, and mildew.

Plastic/resin furniture: These take the least pressure. I set my machine to the lowest setting (if it has an adjustable unloader) or use the 40-degree nozzle. Hold the wand 12-18 inches away. If you get too close, you'll blast holes in the plastic. I've seen it happen. Start far and move closer slowly.

Metal furniture (aluminum/steel): More forgiving. Use the 25-degree nozzle. Keep 10-12 inches away. If paint is already chipping, back off even further. Otherwise you'll peel the paint right off. I once stripped a whole chair's paint in one pass. Looked like a zebra.

Wood furniture: I rarely use a pressure washer on wood. Too risky. If you must, use the 40-degree nozzle on the fan setting (if you have a variable nozzle). Stand 18-24 inches away. Only clean with the grain. Never against it. Even then, expect to sand and reseal after.

Wicker/rattan: Don't. Just don't. Use a soft brush and soapy water. Pressure washer will shred the fibers.

Technique: Don't Rush

Most people hold the nozzle too close and move too fast. Here's the rhythm that works for me:

• Start 12 inches from the surface.
• Move at a steady pace. About 1 foot per second.
• Watch the surface. If it starts looking etched (rough texture), you're too close or the pressure is too high.
• If you see stripes or lines, you're overlapping too little. Aim for 50% overlap.
• For soap application: I use a foam cannon. Soap is mostly for degreasing. You still need the pressure to blast dirt off. Let soap sit 3-5 minutes max. Don't let it dry.

Rinse and Drying Tips

Rinse from top to bottom. Make sure all soap and bleach are gone. Bleach residue will damage plants and can leave white streaks on concrete if it dries.

For patios, I let it dry naturally for 2-3 hours. Don't walk on it for at least an hour. Wet concrete is slippery and wet dirt will immediately re-stick.

For furniture, towel dry if you're putting cushions on soon. Otherwise air dry. Don't leave plastic furniture in direct sun after pressure washing. The water spots show up bad. Wipe it down.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use bleach on pavers?

Yes. But only on organic stains like moss or algae. Dilute it 1:4 with water. Soak the area first. Rinse thoroughly. Don't use bleach on sealed pavers. It'll strip the sealer.

What's a good pressure washer for a beginner?

I recommend the Sun Joe SPX3000 (about $150). Reliable, good pressure, comes with two detergent tanks. Or the Ryobi 2300 PSI electric. Both are fine for patios and furniture. Avoid the cheap $80 models. They'll frustrate you.

How long should this take?

For a 500 sq ft patio: about 1.5-2 hours with a surface cleaner. Double that if you're using just a wand. For a set of 6 chairs and a table: 30-45 minutes total.

Do I need to seal after cleaning?

If the concrete looks dull or porous after drying, yes. I use a water-based acrylic sealer. Roll it on with a paint roller. One coat is usually enough. Re-seal every 2-3 years.

My pressure washer keeps surging. What's wrong?

Check the water supply. It needs at least 5-6 gallons per minute flow. A clogged nozzle can also cause surging. Clean the nozzle with a safety pin. Turn the machine off first.

Can I pressure wash my grill?

Not directly. Pressure washing the inside will push grease into the burners and ruin them. Outside of the grill? Sure, carefully. Cover the burners with a trash bag. Use the 40-degree nozzle. Keep distance.